Date: December 10, 2001
To: PFIC Message Board
From: caffeinehigh
Subject: When to lock the line?
Hi all, I fished at the Long Beach Marina last Friday. There wasn’t much out there, not even little tiny smelts. Anyway, during the 3 hours I was there, I did have a quick run on the fish. It started with the line peeling off and the reel clicking (turned my clicker on) for 2 seconds, then it stops for about a second, then the line went out again for about 5 full seconds... by the time I ran to my pole the clicking stopped (and I yanked the crap out of the pole but it was limp).
If I didn’t have the reel on free spool, do you think the fish would have hooked itself on the first run? The reason I set it to free spool with clicker on is because my friend has caught a 40-inch shovelnose there before and it sucker just took off... good thing he had it on free spool cuz the clicker was going off for the longest time until he ran to his pole. I figure if the reel was locked, it may have took the pole right off the pier or snapped the line... Anyway, my question to you guys is what do you set your reels to? And what’s the best way to do it?
Name: castlebravo
It sounds like you need to stay closer to your rod.
Name: the fisherman
This is what I do and I also see other people doing this also, have the clicker on for like 5 seconds, then open the free spool and let run free and the set the clicker back and set the hook. I always see people doing this when there are looking for something big. I also do this and yes it works in about 95 % of the time! chris
Name: gotem
Well, I set up my tension control on my reel so my line/sinker slowly drops or just fast enough so I don't get a backlash. When I change sinker size, of course, I gotta do it again. That is always job one. This sets up my casting for the day/night of fishing.
As far as my drag goes, I like it set for, ‘torpedo’ mode. Torpedo mode is trying to be on the safe side should a larger shark or ray decide to get spunky and try to spool me. I simply set it to the point that just allows me to reel in my set-up/rig I have in the water.
After casting out and setting my drag (by winding a few times) I put my reel in free spool and turn on the clicker. Once in free spool it becomes easier for the fish to take a good bite. I rarely get a swallowed hook because I use ONLY circle hooks. I believe in returning to the sea what I don't wish to consume.
When a fish bites, I turn off my clicker, pick-up my rod/reel (battle mode), engage my spool, and begin reeling in. Once I engage my reel, I will know how much drag is needed to bring the fish in by tightening down my drag enough to give me the upper hand.
Umm, one time I forgot to engage my reel to free spool and my reel was engaged. Upon getting bit, I put my reel in free spool, just the exact opposite, and had an instant backlash in a second. I lost that fish and my rod was going bendo at the time. Good luck!
Name: pierangler8787
Put your reel in free spool and turn on the clicker. Doing this will let the fish take off with your bait or play around with it for a little bit before it swallows. But also it will keep enough tension in the line so you don't get backlash. Once you hear your reel clicking, turn off the clicker and wait till the fish has the bait in its mouth or starts to run then lock it, ( put it in gear) then set the hook. That's the technique but it sounds like you need to stay closer to your rod. The fish won’t hook itself without the reel in gear. If you do decide to put it gear because of heavy wind, current, waves, or whatever reason then you should put it in a rod holder that when pulled down, the pole stays in one place. Or, if you want to save a lot of time and money, tie some heavy line to the bottom rail of the pier,
Name: gotem
I like to screw in a U-hook, or bicycle hook on the top railing of the pier. You can get them in just about every major store that has a bike department, Kmart, Walmart, Sportmart, ect... I screw it at a level that lets my rod rest at a 45-degree angle over the edge of the railing. It really locks down your rod and you still have a small opening to get your rod out quickly. It's a great thing for the tackle box. I am not sure if the U-hook constitutes damage to the pier, but when I look at all the carvings nowadays and the fish cleaning station, I really see no problem. No Park Ranger EVER mentioned anything to me about it. Anyone know?
Name: Shark Assassin
Okay, since I have been on several Albacore trips over the past few months, and have been on a few earlier on, I have experienced and watched “how to” set the drag properly and when to dis-engage the free-spool. First off, GET CIRCLE HOOKS. Regular hooks do tear up the fish’s mouth when setting the hook, which may minimalize the chances of the fish being released safely without harm. Also, circles prevent gut-hooking, and are fairly well at keeping the hook in the corner of the mouth. Secondly, you don’t need to keep it in free-spool if you're gonna leave the rod there and walk around a bit. If you are nearby, or holding the rod is probably the only way to successfully use the freespool tactic. (So you can quickly engage the drag) Before all this, you have to have the drag-tension just perfect, too tight and it'll snap, too loose and you'll never gain any line. Wrap your hand around the line and tug, if it is pressured, but readily comes out is best. If it leaves marks on your hand then let it a little bit more loose. The reason to leave it in drag mode is because it helps tire the fish, and bruisers that can spool you, are gonna try. Meaning you need that drag to tire them. This works great for the hard-hitting and hard-running Bat Rays, Sharks and several others. Try this out, and remember to try the circle hooks, as I have rarely ever lose a fish due to it getting off with the circle. Good luck. **Shark Assassin**
Name: caffeinehigh
Thanks for your help guys. I now know much more on this issue. But I now have another question. Even when we set the tension to just right, when a fish is on and we lock it in gear and set the hook, won’t the drag be too much on the fish side (meaning when I yank the rod while fish is taking off the other way it will just release the line right)? If I have the tension set to a little tighter, when I set the hook, won’t it tend to break the line since the line is being pulled at 2 opposite ends against each other?
Name: gyozadude
Tension forces... Physics dictates that tension is distributed evenly on a limp line. A fish pulling at one end and friction drag at the other end doesn’t double the tension. The tension is whatever you set it to on the drag spool. It of course isn’t quite true if there is some amount of line stretch which generates tension pulses at some characteristic wave speed in the line but that’s usually very fast (several 1000 meters/sec) so it’s something that you shouldn’t worry about.
To be completely honest, while I would like to claim that holding your rod and setting the hook at just the right time is does catch more fish, the truth is that I get about the same number of hook ups with free spool and locked spool. These days, my bigger concern is whether the hook is big enough for the bait. IMO, the hook exposure is the most important factor in hooking up. During the past summer, when I first went after rays and sharks in the sloughs, I was pitching a number 2/0 octopus hook. I got lots of nibbles that took out line, pulled the rod over, etc. But rarely did I hook up. Then I switched to 6/0 baitholders. Then I started hooking up more than 80% of the time. What I was finding was that with smaller hooks, the bait would slide down and prevent penetration into the fish's jaw. Going with a bigger hook solved those problems. Like wise, I may downsize the bait to fit the hook. – Gyozadude. “Yes - I can roll my own potsticker skins”
Name: caffeinehigh
Thanks, that makes perfect sense Subject: Re: Tension forces...
Name: gotem
One more point when fine tuning your rod/reel: USE CIRCLE HOOKS. When using circle hooks there is no reason to ‘set the hook.’ You do not have to with circle hooks. While using circle hooks, and are in free spool mode, upon a bite, when you engage your reel and begin reeling, the circle hook will ‘set itself’ into the fish. It actually kinda turns into the mouth with tension. Hence: a lot of lip-jaw hooked fish (about 90% of all catches). If you are in drag mode while using circle hooks all you have to do is start reeling and the hook will set itself. It’s a matter of preference whether you free spool your reel or ‘preset’ your drag. I sorta use both at the same time when you add it all up. I like to go free spool because I am either helping my nephew, talking with a fellow pier rat, trying to talk to the foreign girls, IT’S JUST TOO SLOW, or I want to sit on the bench and talk to nobody. Good Luck!
Name: gotem
Plus, I like the ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZz sound!
To: PFIC Message Board
From: caffeinehigh
Subject: When to lock the line?
Hi all, I fished at the Long Beach Marina last Friday. There wasn’t much out there, not even little tiny smelts. Anyway, during the 3 hours I was there, I did have a quick run on the fish. It started with the line peeling off and the reel clicking (turned my clicker on) for 2 seconds, then it stops for about a second, then the line went out again for about 5 full seconds... by the time I ran to my pole the clicking stopped (and I yanked the crap out of the pole but it was limp).
If I didn’t have the reel on free spool, do you think the fish would have hooked itself on the first run? The reason I set it to free spool with clicker on is because my friend has caught a 40-inch shovelnose there before and it sucker just took off... good thing he had it on free spool cuz the clicker was going off for the longest time until he ran to his pole. I figure if the reel was locked, it may have took the pole right off the pier or snapped the line... Anyway, my question to you guys is what do you set your reels to? And what’s the best way to do it?
Name: castlebravo
It sounds like you need to stay closer to your rod.
Name: the fisherman
This is what I do and I also see other people doing this also, have the clicker on for like 5 seconds, then open the free spool and let run free and the set the clicker back and set the hook. I always see people doing this when there are looking for something big. I also do this and yes it works in about 95 % of the time! chris
Name: gotem
Well, I set up my tension control on my reel so my line/sinker slowly drops or just fast enough so I don't get a backlash. When I change sinker size, of course, I gotta do it again. That is always job one. This sets up my casting for the day/night of fishing.
As far as my drag goes, I like it set for, ‘torpedo’ mode. Torpedo mode is trying to be on the safe side should a larger shark or ray decide to get spunky and try to spool me. I simply set it to the point that just allows me to reel in my set-up/rig I have in the water.
After casting out and setting my drag (by winding a few times) I put my reel in free spool and turn on the clicker. Once in free spool it becomes easier for the fish to take a good bite. I rarely get a swallowed hook because I use ONLY circle hooks. I believe in returning to the sea what I don't wish to consume.
When a fish bites, I turn off my clicker, pick-up my rod/reel (battle mode), engage my spool, and begin reeling in. Once I engage my reel, I will know how much drag is needed to bring the fish in by tightening down my drag enough to give me the upper hand.
Umm, one time I forgot to engage my reel to free spool and my reel was engaged. Upon getting bit, I put my reel in free spool, just the exact opposite, and had an instant backlash in a second. I lost that fish and my rod was going bendo at the time. Good luck!
Name: pierangler8787
Put your reel in free spool and turn on the clicker. Doing this will let the fish take off with your bait or play around with it for a little bit before it swallows. But also it will keep enough tension in the line so you don't get backlash. Once you hear your reel clicking, turn off the clicker and wait till the fish has the bait in its mouth or starts to run then lock it, ( put it in gear) then set the hook. That's the technique but it sounds like you need to stay closer to your rod. The fish won’t hook itself without the reel in gear. If you do decide to put it gear because of heavy wind, current, waves, or whatever reason then you should put it in a rod holder that when pulled down, the pole stays in one place. Or, if you want to save a lot of time and money, tie some heavy line to the bottom rail of the pier,
Name: gotem
I like to screw in a U-hook, or bicycle hook on the top railing of the pier. You can get them in just about every major store that has a bike department, Kmart, Walmart, Sportmart, ect... I screw it at a level that lets my rod rest at a 45-degree angle over the edge of the railing. It really locks down your rod and you still have a small opening to get your rod out quickly. It's a great thing for the tackle box. I am not sure if the U-hook constitutes damage to the pier, but when I look at all the carvings nowadays and the fish cleaning station, I really see no problem. No Park Ranger EVER mentioned anything to me about it. Anyone know?
Name: Shark Assassin
Okay, since I have been on several Albacore trips over the past few months, and have been on a few earlier on, I have experienced and watched “how to” set the drag properly and when to dis-engage the free-spool. First off, GET CIRCLE HOOKS. Regular hooks do tear up the fish’s mouth when setting the hook, which may minimalize the chances of the fish being released safely without harm. Also, circles prevent gut-hooking, and are fairly well at keeping the hook in the corner of the mouth. Secondly, you don’t need to keep it in free-spool if you're gonna leave the rod there and walk around a bit. If you are nearby, or holding the rod is probably the only way to successfully use the freespool tactic. (So you can quickly engage the drag) Before all this, you have to have the drag-tension just perfect, too tight and it'll snap, too loose and you'll never gain any line. Wrap your hand around the line and tug, if it is pressured, but readily comes out is best. If it leaves marks on your hand then let it a little bit more loose. The reason to leave it in drag mode is because it helps tire the fish, and bruisers that can spool you, are gonna try. Meaning you need that drag to tire them. This works great for the hard-hitting and hard-running Bat Rays, Sharks and several others. Try this out, and remember to try the circle hooks, as I have rarely ever lose a fish due to it getting off with the circle. Good luck. **Shark Assassin**
Name: caffeinehigh
Thanks for your help guys. I now know much more on this issue. But I now have another question. Even when we set the tension to just right, when a fish is on and we lock it in gear and set the hook, won’t the drag be too much on the fish side (meaning when I yank the rod while fish is taking off the other way it will just release the line right)? If I have the tension set to a little tighter, when I set the hook, won’t it tend to break the line since the line is being pulled at 2 opposite ends against each other?
Name: gyozadude
Tension forces... Physics dictates that tension is distributed evenly on a limp line. A fish pulling at one end and friction drag at the other end doesn’t double the tension. The tension is whatever you set it to on the drag spool. It of course isn’t quite true if there is some amount of line stretch which generates tension pulses at some characteristic wave speed in the line but that’s usually very fast (several 1000 meters/sec) so it’s something that you shouldn’t worry about.
To be completely honest, while I would like to claim that holding your rod and setting the hook at just the right time is does catch more fish, the truth is that I get about the same number of hook ups with free spool and locked spool. These days, my bigger concern is whether the hook is big enough for the bait. IMO, the hook exposure is the most important factor in hooking up. During the past summer, when I first went after rays and sharks in the sloughs, I was pitching a number 2/0 octopus hook. I got lots of nibbles that took out line, pulled the rod over, etc. But rarely did I hook up. Then I switched to 6/0 baitholders. Then I started hooking up more than 80% of the time. What I was finding was that with smaller hooks, the bait would slide down and prevent penetration into the fish's jaw. Going with a bigger hook solved those problems. Like wise, I may downsize the bait to fit the hook. – Gyozadude. “Yes - I can roll my own potsticker skins”
Name: caffeinehigh
Thanks, that makes perfect sense Subject: Re: Tension forces...
Name: gotem
One more point when fine tuning your rod/reel: USE CIRCLE HOOKS. When using circle hooks there is no reason to ‘set the hook.’ You do not have to with circle hooks. While using circle hooks, and are in free spool mode, upon a bite, when you engage your reel and begin reeling, the circle hook will ‘set itself’ into the fish. It actually kinda turns into the mouth with tension. Hence: a lot of lip-jaw hooked fish (about 90% of all catches). If you are in drag mode while using circle hooks all you have to do is start reeling and the hook will set itself. It’s a matter of preference whether you free spool your reel or ‘preset’ your drag. I sorta use both at the same time when you add it all up. I like to go free spool because I am either helping my nephew, talking with a fellow pier rat, trying to talk to the foreign girls, IT’S JUST TOO SLOW, or I want to sit on the bench and talk to nobody. Good Luck!
Name: gotem
Plus, I like the ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZz sound!