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PFIC Message Boards >> Rod and Reel Advice/Seminars Reply to this topic
>> curado rebuild [topic: previous/next]
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 10:30 am
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

this never got posted to pfic but it's been out for a while. somehow it was missed. here you go....

here's the link to the schematics....

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematic...%20CU200B5.pdf

and here's the reel.



to remove the left side plate, flip up the turnkey dial (key #1510) and turn it counter clockwise until you can pull the entire left side plate assembly (key #1509) off.



set the left side plate and spool aside.



let's pull the handle and star, including the handle nut plate screw (key #795, the handle nut plate (key #1993), the handle nut (key #797), the handle (key #1994), and the star drag (key #1486).





now remove the star drag spring (key #1106), the star drag nut (key #1365), the star drag spacer (key #1289), and the two drag spring washers (key #15).



remove the right side plate screws. note that three are short (key #786) and one in the 6 o'clock position is long (key #1998).



remove the left side plate screw/multi-purpose screw (key #987).



pull the thumb rest (key #2044) straight forward. this is the tricky part.



the right side plate assembly (key #1997) will now lift straight up.



you now have full access to the right side plate.



here's a neat little trick. the main drive gear (key #1213) is often stuck! put the handle back on, grab the main gear and twist the handle back and forth at the same time your lift the main gear off.



i've lined up the drag washer A (key# 1214), the drive gear (key #1213), drag washer C (key #1212), the key washer (key #1211), and the roller clutch inner tube (key #1206).



the carbontex washer that you need is the calcutta 200 drag set. it fits a bunch of different reels!



throw a thick coat of drag grease on both carbontex washers....





and rebuild the gear cluster.



lube the right side plate bearing (key #194).



the right side plate (key #1997) drops straight down.



push the thumb rest (key #2044) straight back and into place.



re-install the left side plate multi-purpose screw (key #987).



re-install all four right side plate screws (key #786 and 1998). the long screw goes in the 6 o'clock position.



re-install the drag spring washers (key #15) in a "()" configuration. then install the star drag spacer (key #1289) and star drag nut (key #1365).



install the star drag spring (key #1106) and the star drag (key #1486). push the star drag straight down onto the drive shaft (key #1491) until it clears the "shoulders" of the drive shaft.



push the handle (key #1994) down until it rests on the "shoulders" of the drive shaft, add a little grease and tighten down the handle nut (key #797).



install the handle nut plate (key #1993) and screw (key #795).



lube the right spool bearing (no key #).



lube the left side plate bearing (key #194).



re-install the spool and left side plate and you're done!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 10:49 am
1014


Posts: 276
Location: at a "new" spot (gps coordinates in my next post)

alan, is this roughly the same as the shimano cruxis 200?
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:34 pm
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

i've had only one cruxis apart. pretty simple. you will probably need a penn ht-100 #6-965 drag washer to go under the gear. you will also probably need a #6-113h drag washer to go inside. both of these drag washers will probably need to be cut down to fit.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2008 11:53 am
garymt


Posts: 10

Alan,

For the rebuild of the Curado, the antireverse roller bearing was not given any attention. Should it be lubricated? And if so, with which light lubricant? Shimano mineral oil, rocket fuel (yel), Corossion X?

GaryMT
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:44 am
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

shimano uses a light coat of their teflon drag grease on the roller bearing inner tube. accurate uses a light coat of corrosion x. either one should be fine. alan
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 1:10 am
norcalrod


Posts: 429

In past rebuilds, you take the cover off the bearings. Any particular reason you didn't do so with this reel rebuild?
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:32 am
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

there was a period of time when it was 50:50. for fresh water reels, i was just dropping some corrosion x in and calling it done. i figured that corrosion was not a big issue. now i open them up and clean them thoroughly to get the best spin. it also makes later maintenance much easier.
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