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>> daiwa sealine-x 30 shv rebuild [topic: previous/next]
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 11:00 pm
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

fast and cheap. not a bad combination. fast means big gears and big drag washers. cheap in price, perfectly decent in quality. here's a link to the schematic ......

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20Sealine%20-%20X20SHV,%20X30SHV.pdf

and here is our reel, beat to a pulp, down but not out.



this is a casting reel. for now, and in the future, we can service the bearings by pulling just the left side plate and spool. nice design. remove the three left side plate screws (key #1).



that's all it takes to pull the spool.



if this reel is going to used for distance casting and you will be servicing the bearings frequently, then let's remove all of the hardware covering/protecting the left spool bearing (key #9) to allow easy access. otherwise, let's leave it covered and just lube it up.



the right spool bearing (key #23) is highly vulnerable and frequently fails.



at the very least, let'd pull it out and remove the shields. remove both bearing retainer screws (key #20) and the bearing retainer A (key #19).



review the bearings post for a description of the different types of bearings and maintenance options.



i've opted to clean this bearing and lube it with corrosion x. if casting was not an issue, you could pack the bearing with grease as discussed in the bearing post.



back in it goes.





reinstall the spool (key #17).



reinstall the left side plate assembly.



now, for the right side plate assembly. first, let's remove the handle nut plate (key #7Cool by pushing on two small tabs underneath the handle arm.



ok, so these daiwa's are not the most corrosion resistant reels in the world. actually, any reel with a handle nut cap has problems. i see this commonly. remove the handle nut (key #77). then remove the handle (key #76). this is where it can get ugly. if it's badly stuck, then wiggle it anyway you can just to loosen it a little, then start backing out the star (key #74) counterclockwise to force the handle off. yes, you run the risk of damaging the star and/or the drive shaft (key #59). you could soak it in penetrating oil first, but, honestly, this usually works.



see, i told you it would work!!!!!! now, remove the spacing sleeve (key #75) and the star drag (key #74).



remove the drag spring washers (key #73) and bearing washer B (key #72). note that the spring washers are cupped "()".



now for the right side plate. remove the four right side plate screw A's (key #46) and the two right side plate screw B's (key #47). take note, they are different. also, there is no need to remove the clutch lever (key #42) or the cast control cap (key #54), so let's leave them in place.



remove the right side plate assembly (key #41). it will lift off cleanly. note that the bearing (key #71) stayed with the side plate. pull it out and set it in line with everything else, or just leave it there for now.



remove collar B (key #70).



remove collar A (key #69) and the water shield (key #6Cool.



remove o-ring C (key #67). look carefully, it's there, and it's a hassle to remove. if you tear it, don't worry. it's no big deal.



when you bolt down the handle, a small burr forms on the drive shaft (key #59). to make it easier to remove the metal drag washer and the main gear, let's take a flat file and file off the burr.





now the entire gear cluster slides right off.



separate everything out, keep things in order, and clean everything up. note that the metal washers alternate keyed (key #65) - eared (key #66) - keyed (key #65).



these felt washers started out off-white and often turn to black.



until smoothdrag.com has a set of carbontex washers for this reel, you'll have to use penn ht-100 washers. the smaller washer is a penn ht-100 #6-965 that has been ground down to a 15mm outer diameter. you can use the full sized washer, though, and it goes under the gear. the three larger washers go inside the gear. they are part #56-440. the fit is not exact, and you have to cut off the "keys," but it's close enough until a set of carbotex washers become available. the washers are available from your local penn dealer, or from pennparts.com.



slap a thick coat of shimano or cal's drag grease on the drag washers. let the excess ooze out the sides.



rebuild the drag stack and alternate the metal washers "keyed/eared/keyed."



replace the o-ring (key #67) if you still have it.



replace collar A (key #69) and the water shield (key #6Cool.



replace collar B (key #70) and make sure it goes in "skinny side up."



almost there. everything ok so far?



now, about that bearing (key #71). sorry, it's toast. it's a very common problem. and don't be disappointed. not a single reel manufacturer anywhere, from accurate to zelina, will take the time to adequately pack these drive shaft bearings with grease.





so let's replace it with a new bearing, pack that bearing with grease and put it back on the drive shaft.







let's install the side plate (key #41). first, the round peg on the clutch cam (key #39) has to match up with the oval hole of the yoke plate (key #2Cool.



second, the point of the pinion shaft (key #49) has to match up with the hole in the pinion gear (key #32).





ok, everything is lined up properly, right?



perfect! you're in!!! no? ok, wiggle the clutch lever (key #42) just a little. got it!



reinstall side plate screws A (key #46) and B (key #47).



paint a little grease on the drive shaft (key #59). remember all the trouble we had getting the handle off?



install the bearing washer B (key #72) and the drag spring washers (key #73) oriented "()".



install the star (key #74).



paint a little grease on the spacing sleeve (key #75) and install it.



install the handle (key #76), the handle nut (key #77), paint on a little extra grease and then install the handle nut cap (key #7Cool.



done!



ok, a couple of editorial comments. these reels cast great. the speed shaft means that you do not have a spool shaft hanging up on the pinion gear to slow down the spool. these reels, then, will cast just as well as a lever drag reel that has a spool with the same overall mass. the drags are huge, but you get that with any high speed star drag reel. i've never heard of any of these graphite frames breaking and these frames do not corrode. and lastly, i hate the handles. hey, three out of four is not so bad. so if you're looking for a fast, light, strong, inexpensive reel, take a look at the daiwa sealine-x!

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eddie's brother, grady white 258

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 5:28 am
mel


Posts: 2349

Tru dat. I have a Daiwa Sealine 30H and it casts beautifully too.
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 6:35 am
1014


Posts: 276
Location: at a "new" spot (gps coordinates in my next post)

the shv was discontinued last year. to replace, daiwa came out with the sha: new handle like the saltist and corrosion resistant bearings. as alan said, GREAT freespool and very fast out of the box. maybe too fast for most fisherman. but they include brake blocks that you need to install your self on the centrifugal brakes. some people (read: GP)don't like how the gear box protudes and is low, something the saltist and the saltiga (the higher end models) solves. but again it's cheap and a great caster and holds lots of line.

tho, i don't use the brake blocks I slow the bearings down alot with a drip of blue 3-in-1 each. i haven't magged it yet.
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 10:08 am
grammar police


Posts: 441

Thanks Alan, this will be handy here. Quiter a few fish this reel on this board.

1014 wrote:
(read: GP)don't like how the gear box protudes and is low...


There is more to it than just that... but yeah. That reel equals one expensive fishing weight in my book. Go TEAM SALTIST! Very Happy

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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 1:29 pm
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

here's how i solved the handle problem.


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 2:05 pm
1014


Posts: 276
Location: at a "new" spot (gps coordinates in my next post)

awesome handle alan.

gp, aside from the gear box "pinching" your hand during casts, why the hate for the reel? it's not my favorite reel, but penny for penny it's definitely a worthwhile reel. and i would definitely take it toe to toe with most reels out there.
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 3:37 pm
bcooney


Posts: 122

My longest cast EVER to date has been on this reel- spooled with 20lb mono, 5oz weight on team diawa 11'4"

not magged, no brake blocks, no shock leader (be careful)- sae 20 oil in fresh bearings

measured out on local field at 414 ft- nothing super by distance caster's standards, but I was pretty happy.
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 6:16 pm
dompfa ben


Posts: 408

Thanks, Alan...

I have several of the Sealine-X series of reels:

2 - 20's
2 - 30's
2 - 40's
2 - 50's

Question: Are the drags different for the 30,40, and 50? ...and are they different sizes for the 4.9:1 and the 6.1:1 reels? Thanks...

These are my go-to reels for most local boat/kayak fishing. I've abused them, and they look like hell... but still fish pretty well. Almost as well as my OLD Sealine 6:1 reel.

Now that I've used your tutorials to trick out all my Abu 5500's and 6500's (including the Wal*Mart special Brute 6600!) I'm going to use this post to clean up all my Daiwas!

Thanks. Oh, and as for the handle...

I took the power handle off my 6600, and put it on my C36500... then took an extra Daiwa Sealine-X handle, and put it on the 6600! The gold matches up nicely Smile haha..
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