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>> penn 500 jigmaster rebuild [topic: previous/next]
PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:51 pm
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

i'm not trying to make you feel, um, " g - u - i - l - t - y ....', or anything, but i know you have one of these reels. i can tell by the way you shuffle your feet. c'mon, it's not that bad. we've all had one of these reels before. it might have even been your first. there's no reason to be embarassed about owning a jigmaster. it was once considered to be one of the best reels on the market. it can be once again.

here's a link to the schematic....

http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=5900&ClearCache=1

and here is your old friend.



did you ever wonder that this little screw was for? back out this take apart thumb screw (key #42), lift the screw up slightly, and twist the entire right side plate counterclockwise. it comes right off!



you now have three pieces.



let's grease the left side plate screws (key #32 and 39). back out each one, one at a time, grease the screw hole and zip the screw back in.



apply grease to the click tongue (key #35) and click spring (key #62). add corrosion x to the left side bushing (key #40).



back out each one of the right side plate screws (key #31 and 3Cool, one at a time, grease the screw holes, and zip the screws back in.



grease the inside of the left side ring and wipe off the excess.



re-install the spool and set the assembly aside.



now for the right side plate assembly.



remove the handle lock screw (key #23a), the handle screw (key #23), the handle (key #24) and the star drag wheel (key #10).



back out the four bridge screws (key #16 and 17) but leave them in place!!!!!!



the bridge assembly is now loose underneath. imagine your hand is a small crane. lift the right side plate (key #1) straight up, move it straight over to a safe place, and set it straight down without tipping it over. resist the temtation to look underneath. for now....



carefully line up all the components of the drag stack and bridge assembly.



ok, now it's decision time. on the right, you see a brand new stock brass gear sleeve ($6). on the left is a brand new pete kolekar stainless steel gear sleeve ($15). in the middle is the original stock brass gear sleeve and it's trashed! i only recommend a stainless steel gear sleeve if you INTEND to exceed 8 pounds of drag.



here's how the trashed gear sleeve fits in the handle. you can see how much play it has.



here's the new brass gear sleeve. not to bad, but there's still a little play.



here's the stainless steel gear sleeve.



using a small punch, remove the brass retaining pin.



pull the old gear sleeve, clean up the the bridge and lube it up with corrosion x.



install the new gear sleeve and retaining pin.



done.



i like to replace the fiber washer (key #4) with the drag washer from the black side plate penn 4/0 senator 113. this drag washer (part #6-113) has the same inner and outer dimensions as the long beach washer (part #6-60), but it's thicker. i use this washer under the gears of many reels using the jigmaster gear sleeve (part #98-60).



grease up the rest of the drag washers and install them with the metal washers. make sure the metal washers are alternating "slotted - keyed - slotted."



because the #6-113 drag washer under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer (key #4), i usually discard the tension spring (key #Cool.



now, your side plate is still sitting there, quiet and undisturbed.



cover the bridge screws with your left index and middle fingers so the screws do not fall out.



ok, NOW you can look at the guts of the side plate.



remove the pinion gear (key #13), lube the right side bushing (key #26) with corrosion x, and put the pinion gear back.



the bridge/main gear assembly goes straight in. no muss, no fuss. pinch everything together, zip down the four bridge screws and you're done!!!!!!!!!!!



did you say something?

huh? what was that? what accident? what do you mean, you had a little accident? how many pieces?



ok, look, it's not that bad. first, let's line everything up. see, that looks better already!



first is the eccentric (key #19) and eccentric spring (key #20).



grease it up a little and stick it back in the hole.



stick the eccentric lever (key #21) back on....



and bolt it down with the eccentric screw (key #22).



stick a screwdriver blade under the spring to lift it up a little, then grab it with the needle nose pliers.



crank the tip of the spring HARD and stick it into the slot of the side plate. the lever should now snap back and forth sharply.



now for the bridge screws (key #16 and 17). note that two are threaded all the way up and down, and two are threaded only at the end. the clutch springs (key #1Cool ride up and down on the bridge screws with the short threads.



short threads on top, long threads on bottom.



two fingers over the bridge screws, flip over the side plate and install the clutch springs (key #1Cool. oh, and lube the right side plat bushing (key #26) if you haven't already.



install the pinion yoke (key #12) and the pinion gear (key #13) as a unit.



shimmy the eccentric jack into position. you may need needle nose pliers to snap it into position.



make sure the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) are in proper position.



snap it together.



bolt it down. take a moment now to make sure the free spool lever and anti-reverse mechanism work.



install the spacing sleeve (key #9).



install the star drag wheel (key #10) and screw it down as far as it will go. don't skip this step.



install the handle (key #24) and handle screw (key #23). turn the handle screw down until it seats, the crank it around HARD until the handle screw has rotated one or two slots and line up the slot with hole for the handle lock screw. now install the handle lock screw (key #23a).



line up the side plate with the left side plate ring, push the side plate down, then turn it clockwise until the take apart thumb screw "clicks." turn the screw down and you're done! congratulations.!



see, that wasn't so bad......

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:09 pm
songslinger


Posts: 820
Location: Where Common Sense Presides

Fantastic. Very helpful and inspires courage. Much appreciated!
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 9:35 pm
santa


Posts: 522
Location: Santa Maria

Thanks Alan, Good info. Yes! I have one of these. No! I do not feel guilty. Yes! I still use it and like it.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:14 am
StickShaker


Posts: 2

Great Work and Pictures!!
I just picked up a couple old Squidders that seem to be in pretty decent mechanical condition. I have never used one before and have no experience with them. The Jigmaster looks similar. Can I use your pics to go thru the Squidder teardown? Maybe this is impossible to answer, but concerning the Jigmaster and the Squidder what parts typically fail first or need to be replaced most often?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:32 am
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

i'll need to post the 4/0 senator rebuild tutorial. i hadn't posted it here because i figured you'd never be working on a 4/0 senator.

as far as failures go, the drags are always first. when the drags stick, the gear sleeve is next. grease the drags and don't set the drags too high, and the gear sleeve should never be a problem. the other thing to go out is the bearings. for long distance casting, you have to clean and relube the bearings on a regular basis. long distance casting fisherman requires better performing bearings then the average boat fisherman.

stay tuned.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:43 am
bcooney


Posts: 122

Thank you very much Alan- very timely as I have 2 of these I have been putting off puting back together after a little 'mistake'. A question though, since bearings came up in your reply- I know the standard jigmaster as you have pictured has bushings and not bearings- is there any particular service or check needed of the bushings?

Thanks again,

Brian
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 11:15 am
mel


Posts: 2349

Also, the reel that you did for me (The 505HS) has been used and abused. Big fish just love that reel. Grease the bearings you say? How? It's starting to get a little "sticky". The clicker in free spool is inconsistent but I don't hardly use it anyways and I find myself loosening the bearing screw more and more each time.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 11:26 am
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

brian, the bushing are chrome over brass and will wear out against the stainless steel spool shaft over time. clean them out with a q-tip and lube them with corrosion x. if they are too badly worn, they have to be replaced. you can get them at the rod rack, hi's or pennparts.com.

mel, bearings are not forever. that's the problem with bearings. i can pull them out and i should be able to clean and relube them. or i may have to replace them if they're corroded. i work monday and thursday of next week. drop it off on monday. if the bearings can be rescued, you can have it back by thursday. if i have to order new bearings, it will take a little longer. you've got my #.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 11:29 am
Uncle E


Posts: 2
Location: San Diego, CA

Alan,

Wher were you when my Okuma (don't know the model # off the top of my head) dropped a deuce on me. The line guide was locked and the reel wouldn't turn. I took me two nights to figure out what was wrong with it. I took it apart and greased and cleaned everything inside and it works like a dream.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 1:49 pm
mel


Posts: 2349

alantani wrote:
mel, bearings are not forever. that's the problem with bearings. i can pull them out and i should be able to clean and relube them. or i may have to replace them if they're corroded. i work monday and thursday of next week. drop it off on monday. if the bearings can be rescued, you can have it back by thursday. if i have to order new bearings, it will take a little longer. you've got my #.


Since I put most of my sturgy stuff away and am re spooling with mono for stripers, I won't have to do it right away. After I get back from vacation and get my refurbished rod from Gyozadude, I'll be on the beach. I don't like bringing my conventionals on the sand for fear of dropping them in it but after checking out your tutorials I think conventionals are easier to clean than spinning reels. I may pull out the big stuff for batray fishing every now and then but I'll just leave the Jigmaster as is for now. I'll probably change out the bearings again right before I go sturgeon hunting next season.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 5:13 pm
skyhook


Posts: 240

Alan thanks for the Jigmaster thread. I have an old 501 with a slight problem. For some reason the arms of the star drag wheel make contact with the right side bearing when the wheel is wound all the way down.

Took the reel apart and made sure the correct numbers of drag washers where in the correct positions. Everything seems to be where it should be.


The only thing I can think of is that the spacing sleeve is a little short or the "spring" washer has become a little flatter over time.

Is this a common problem with this model and could you recommend a solution?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 7:03 pm
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

yeah, it's bottoming out. another wave washer under the spacer should to the trick. are you ok tearing down the reel? if so, pm me your address and i'll mail you one. alan
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 9:37 am
bcooney


Posts: 122

Hey Alan- thanks AGAIN- I just completely rebuilt my first reel ever thanks to your jigmaster tutorial. It was in a bunch of platic bags completely taken apart and now it is lubed up with a new gear sleeve and freespool spins for days.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 6:38 am
gordo grande


Posts: 1091

Wow, Alan, this post couldn't have come at a better time. I recently picked up a 20 year old jigmaster at a garage sale, (along with a Sabre rod...got them both for $20). It looks like it's in perfect shape other than some serious pitting. Common sense dictates that I give it some servicing before I start using it.

Two quick questions: Can you recommend a specific real grease to use, and is there anything that I can do about the pitting?

Thanks for all your expert advice that you so generously share with us.

Ross
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:49 am
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

you're gonna love this.

lime away!!!!!!!!!!!!


yeah, lime away! make sure you get the calcium and rust remover. CLR works great as well. they contain sulfamic acid and hydroxy acetic acid. brush the stuff on and let it soak for 3 hours, then rinse. DO NOT get this stuff in your eyes! it has to sit on your skin for quite a while before it causes burns, but wash it off right away. it takes all the corrosion off. then you just have to deal with the pits.

briefly, i use shimano drag grease on the drag washers. i use corrosion x on the bearings, bushings, level wind assemblies and handle grips.
and i use blue yamaha engine grease on all the non-exposed metal surfaces, including the now cleaned out pitted surfaces. good luck! alan

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