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>> penn squidder 140/145/146 rebuild [topic: previous/next]
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:37 am
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

here's another old standard from penn. the squidders continue to remain popular among long distance surf casters. they also performs well for many inshore light tackle applications. a single screw also allows you to remove the side plate and easily clean the reel or change spools.



first, go to pennparts.com for the schematics and parts lists. for this particular rebuild post, i will be working off the 145 schematic.

140L - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=199&ClearCache=1

140L-LH - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=200&ClearCache=1

145 - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=201&ClearCache=1

146 - http://store.scottsbt.com/category1.aspx?SID=8&Category_ID=202&ClearCache=1

what we're going to do with this reel is to hotrod it a little, with a jigmaster power handle (#24-56), a narrow frame and spool conversion kit http://store.scottsbt.com/KIT140-146CK-Conversion-Kit-140-to-146---Limit-One-P13263C202.aspx, a new set of three #6-60 drag washers inside the main gear, a new #6-113 drag washer under the main gear, and a stainless steel gear sleeve that was made up custom for me. please note that this is not the same #98-60AT or #98-505AT stainless steel gear sleeve carried by pennparts.com. this was a limited run made by pete kolekar at my request. there are only a few left.



one of the nice features of this reel and the jigmaster is the take apart thumb screw (key #40). turn the screw counterclockwise, lift this spring-loaded screw a little, then turn the entire left side plate counterclockwise and remove the right side plate assembly.



we're now down to three pieces, the frame assembly, spool and right side plate assembly.



we'll start by removing the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 39).



note that the post screws (key #39) are longer than the stand screws (key #32).



grease the screw holes of the new frame posts (key #37) and new stand (key #30) and install them.



remove the left side bearing (key #40).



pull out the bearing shield (no key #).



the old bearing is toast.



a new bearing is a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172 in stainless steel. it's going in degreased, lubed with corrosion x and left open.



grab that ratty old toothbrush and brush on a light coat of grease.



a little on the spool (key #29L) as well.



there. much nicer!



remove the right post (key #3Cool and stand (key #31) screws. note that they are also of different lengths.



grease the screw holes and re-install the right side ring (key #2).



throw the spool in and set them both aside.



now for the right side plate assembly. remove the handle lock screw (key #23a).



remove the handle screw (key #23).





remove the handle (key #24) and note the damage to the top of the soft brass gear sleeve (key #9Cool.



remove the star (key #10).



remove the spacing sleeve (key #9).



back out the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).



the bridge assembly will drop straight out. note that the dog and dog spring came with it.



this dog is a little different from the others. it has a hole drilled into it and the spring rests inside making the installion much easier.



here's the bridge (key #3) with the main gear (key #5), drag washers (key #'s 4, 6 and 7) and tension spring.





to remove the brass gear sleeve (key #9Cool, push (or punch) out the retaining pin.





install the new stainless steel gear sleeve and the retaining pin. sometimes the pin sticks out a little. just file it flat and the main gear should be able to slide over with no trouble.



the first washer that goes under the main gear is a #6-113. a generous coat of cal's drag grease works well here.



rebuild the gear stack with a generous coat of drag grease on all of the drag washers. don't worry about the excess. it will simply squeeze out the sides. note that we will also be discarding the tension spring (key #Cool. the extra thickness of the #6-113 drag washer underneath the main gear means that there is no room for the tension spring.



now for the right side plate bearing.



our handy dandy bearing pulling tool will remove the bearing cover.



it will also remove the bearing (key #26).



this bearing was rusted as well. this new bearing is also a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172.



let's line everything up.



first, install the bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17). note that the screws that are threaded just at the tip go on top.



your left index and middle finger cover the bridge screws. the right side plate (key #1) is held between your left thumb and ring finger.



now you can flip the side plate over with no risk of having the screws fall out.



install the clutch springs (key #1Cool.



install the pinion yoke (key #12) and pinion gear (key #13) as a unit.



install the eccentric jack (key #11).



install the bridge/main gear assembly, turned 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.



install the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) as a unit. lay it down over the bridge screw and note that the dog spring sticks out too far.



press down on the bridge assembly with your left thumb. use the blade of a small flat screwdriver to push the dog spring down into it's final position.





rotate the bridge assembly 90 degrees clockwise and push it down into it's final position.



with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly over.



start each bridge screw half way, then cinch down each screw until they are snug.



verify that the freespool lever (key #21) works properly.



verify that the secondary freespool lever (key #21C) functions properly. this lever allow the handle to turn backwards by disengaging the dog.



install the spacing sleeve (key #9).



install the star (key #10).



install the upgraded handle (key #24). add a light coat of grease.



install the handle screw (key #23).



install the handle lock screw (key #23A).



press the right side plate assembly down into the right side ring (key #2) until it seats, turn the right side plate assembly clockwise until the take apart thumb screw (key #41) lines up with the threaded screw hole, and turn the thumb screw down until it seats.



congratulations! you're done!



now, for a couple of comments. honestly, there is no way that this upgrade was anywhere near worth the time and expense that was required. but this was never about money, was it. i know one thing for sure. the new owner was a very proud and happy man. personally, i much prefer the balance that the narrowed frame offers. i like my reels "boxed out," having a spool that is as wide as it is tall. with greased carbon fiber drag washers, this reel will deliver a maximum of 12-15 pounds of drag at the top of the spool. the stock brass gear sleeve will start to round off at drag settings in excess of 8 pounds. the stainless steel gear sleeve will easily hold up under 15 pounds of drag. that means that this stainless steel gear sleeve is a worthwhile upgrade ONLY if you are going to fish a 10 pound drag setting with, say, straight 30# mono. that works out well, because the gap between the spool and side plate rings can be so large that the reel will eat 25 pound mono or less. it will also obviously eat spectra. this is an important point. this is not a spectra ready, or spectra worthy, reel.

maintenance of this reel is very simple. the screw holes and drag washers will be good forever. it would be a simple matter to strip off all the line, take the reel apart, flush it out with a full blast of water from a hose, blow out the bearings with compressed air, lube the bearings with more corrosion x, reassemble the reel, spool it up with more 30# mono, reset the drag and set it aside for the next fishing trip. if the bearings foul, you now know how to replace them. other than a fresh water rinse and blow dry, only the bearings are at risk for failure. if you are distance casting, you know that bearing maintenance is critical.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 12:08 pm
dompfa ben


Posts: 409

Awesome, as usual.

I have a narrow Squidder Accuframe floating around my garage. Maybe I'll have to find an old Squidder now, and do your rebuild for a retro Albacore reel Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:04 pm
dsrtegl


Posts: 342
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca

Alan.....Please tell me that what I am seeing is not really a Royal Purple Squidder...........I collect Squidders and have never even HEARD of such a thing........You are KILLING me.

Love the Squidders and now have a stockpile of 3 each of the 145, 146 sizes with at least one aluminum spool each and six of the 140's.

Now all I need is to win the lottery so I can afford the GAS to go fishing with them.

Those bearings are sweet...Is your source a secret?
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:35 pm
red fish


Posts: 2550
Location: Berkeley Pier

dsrtegl wrote:
Alan.....Please tell me that what I am seeing is not really a Royal Purple Squidder...........I collect Squidders and have never even HEARD of such a thing........You are KILLING me.

Love the Squidders and now have a stockpile of 3 each of the 145, 146 sizes with at least one aluminum spool each and six of the 140's.

Now all I need is to win the lottery so I can afford the GAS to go fishing with them.

Those bearings are sweet...Is your source a secret?
I was wondering about it too, and just thought the color balance on Alan's camera was reproducing a slightly different color from the old dark red colored Squidders. If you look closely, at some of the close-ups, it looks like a dark red reel was re-coated to a purplish color. It seems to have been painted by hand...similarly to that guy you posted the site of previously that re-paints Penns. Nice stuff Alan as there are many squidder fans here like: Snookie, Scooterfish, DSRTEGL, I, and others. I think the trick is to get a flat color paint... of course you could go with a full accurate frame if you could still find one. Smile Good work as always Alan
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:47 pm
FishermanDan


Posts: 2495

Nice observation Red, you've got a good eye! Appears to be painted. Neat idea too..hmmm
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:48 am
eelmaster


Posts: 592

red fish wrote:
dsrtegl wrote:
Alan.....Please tell me that what I am seeing is not really a Royal Purple Squidder...........I collect Squidders and have never even HEARD of such a thing........You are KILLING me.

Love the Squidders and now have a stockpile of 3 each of the 145, 146 sizes with at least one aluminum spool each and six of the 140's.

Now all I need is to win the lottery so I can afford the GAS to go fishing with them.

Those bearings are sweet...Is your source a secret?
I was wondering about it too, and just thought the color balance on Alan's camera was reproducing a slightly different color from the old dark red colored Squidders. If you look closely, at some of the close-ups, it looks like a dark red reel was re-coated to a purplish color. It seems to have been painted by hand...similarly to that guy you posted the site of previously that re-paints Penns. Nice stuff Alan as there are many squidder fans here like: Snookie, Scooterfish, DSRTEGL, I, and others. I think the trick is to get a flat color paint... of course you could go with a full accurate frame if you could still find one. Smile Good work as always Alan


I don't know, Red. I see no brush strokes. That could be due to a good rheology, but plastic is hard to apply aquious coating to. Also, if you look at the lettering, it would seem that if it were hand painted, one would tend to loose the detail of the raised lettering. Then again, what the hell do I know?

Oh yeah, Derek, didn't you endever to custom paint Penns?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 11:51 am
grammar police


Posts: 441

Schweet... A Barney reel for my snoopy rod!

I think it is his camera color. I'm willing to bet it is the deep red one.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 6:49 pm
dsrtegl


Posts: 342
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca

eelmaster wrote:
red fish wrote:
dsrtegl wrote:
Alan.....Please tell me that what I am seeing is not really a Royal Purple Squidder...........I collect Squidders and have never even HEARD of such a thing........You are KILLING me.

Love the Squidders and now have a stockpile of 3 each of the 145, 146 sizes with at least one aluminum spool each and six of the 140's.

Now all I need is to win the lottery so I can afford the GAS to go fishing with them.

Those bearings are sweet...Is your source a secret?
I was wondering about it too, and just thought the color balance on Alan's camera was reproducing a slightly different color from the old dark red colored Squidders. If you look closely, at some of the close-ups, it looks like a dark red reel was re-coated to a purplish color. It seems to have been painted by hand...similarly to that guy you posted the site of previously that re-paints Penns. Nice stuff Alan as there are many squidder fans here like: Snookie, Scooterfish, DSRTEGL, I, and others. I think the trick is to get a flat color paint... of course you could go with a full accurate frame if you could still find one. Smile Good work as always Alan


I don't know, Red. I see no brush strokes. That could be due to a good rheology, but plastic is hard to apply aquious coating to. Also, if you look at the lettering, it would seem that if it were hand painted, one would tend to loose the detail of the raised lettering. Then again, what the hell do I know?

Oh yeah, Derek, didn't you endever to custom paint Penns?



Yep...Painted a couple with Krylon Fusion but they looked like crap....Painted a couple of others with auto grade paints and they looked much better but it is a major pain to clean and prep them for proper paint adhesion.....Gonna wait until I win the lottery to experiment more.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:27 pm
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

sorry, guys, but yes, it is an old burgundy reel that looks purple under the incandescent lights. purple would have been very cool. you can get the bearings from anyone. lately i've been going to smoothdrag.com for individual bearings. alan
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:11 am
bcooney


Posts: 122

Speaking of squidders, here is a rare bird- an accurate 'magnum' squidder. This uses Jigmaster internals in the sideplate- so you could have 5:1 ratio in a squidder- this is purely academic, since they are extremely rare and expensive when they do come up, and you would be better off just buying an Avex SX if you wanted something similar for less $, but pretty cool item for collectors to aspire to:
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 9:07 pm
alantani


Posts: 241
Location: alantani@yahoo.com

very nice!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:26 pm
gordo grande


Posts: 1091

You guys are killing me! I've always wanted a squidder.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:26 pm
gordo grande


Posts: 1091

You guys are killing me! I've always wanted a squidder.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 7:58 pm
riorust


Posts: 446
Location: Head in the clouds, eyes on the horizon.

bcooney - That accurate conversion is sweet!!!! I had heard of that conversion some time ago, but never found one. 5:1 with SS gears from Newell, and a modern drag would make the Squidder a hot reel by todays standards.
PS. I just sold 7 Squidders (140-146) on Ebay to make room for more AVET's!
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:00 pm
dsrtegl


Posts: 342
Location: Rohnert Park, Ca

gordo grande wrote:
You guys are killing me! I've always wanted a squidder.


They ain't that much money anymore. I have seen NOS sold on eBay for as little as $30 with shipping and New in Box for only a few dollars more. I would buy 2 with aluminum spools if I were you and then get the 140-146 conversion parts (support bars, spool). Convert one to the 146 size, which rocks for nearshore rocks and coastal surf, and use the standard version with both original aluminum spools.....one with a good 20# line and one with 80# braid and you are good to go.

like I said............I LOVE SQUIDDERS.
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